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What the heck is ... fennel?
 Ahh, fennel! That wonderfully mysterious vegetable / herb / spice / salad green / medicine / aphrodisiac / root / bulb / stalk / leaf / feather / flower / seed / oil / tea / enigmatic legend! No wonder people get confused. Fennel is all of these things ... and more. It is one of the "funnest" ingredients that a Chef can play with. Here at Tapino, Chef James always seems to have either grilled or braised fennel on the menu somewhere. You will also often find it hiding in soups, or garnishing a salad, or nestled alongside some sort of seafood. Its uses are endless because virtually every part of the fennel plant is edible: the roots and stalks can be cooked and eaten as a vegetable; the stems chopped and added to salads; the bulb eaten raw or cooked; chopped leaves used in soups, with fish or added to salads; fennel seeds are used in pickles, liqueurs, tomato sauces and sausages; fennel oil is used in candy, liqueur and perfume.  It can be boiled, baked, fried, braised, roasted, sliced, diced, mashed, or left raw, and used in any way that you could use an onion, celery, potato, cabbage or bean sprouts.
Fennel (Anethum foeniculum vulgare, a memberof the parsley family Apiaceae) has been around for many centuries. The Romans called this native Mediterranean plant foeniculum, meaning "fragrant hay". In ancient Greece it was known as Marathon (because it grew at this battle site), and it was used as a symbol of victory. In Italy, fennel is called finocchio. There was this toy maker, you see, named Geppetto ... ...
 In the past, fennel was regarded as an essential culinary spice and as being an herb with mystical properties. Fennel was used as a witchcraft and evil deterrent, frequently hung over doors to ward off evil spirits. Legends suggested it was beneficial for eyesight, and it was subsequently used for gastrointestinal disorders and for coughs. The Romans believed that snakes sucked fennel juice in order to improve their eye sight. The Greeks believed that fennel would prevent obesity and increase strength. During the Middle Ages, fennel seeds were chewed in church because it was thought they would prevent tummy rumbles from hunger pangs during long services. Today, fennel seed is widely used in India as an after-dinner breath freshener and also to help in digestion. Flies and fleas absolutely hate fennel, so in its powdered form it can be sprinkled on pets and aids in keeping kennels, animal pens and stables fresh, clean and pest-free.
 Fennel's medicinal effects have long been known (albeit sometimes incorrectly). Fennel aids in digestion and as a tea, may be helpful to dieters as it allays hunger pangs. It may also be taken to relieve nausea and flatulence. To help with indigestion and gas, drink a tea made by pouring boiling water over crushed fennel seeds (1 tsp seed to a pint of water). The seeds are simmered in syrups for coughs, shortness of breath, and wheezing. The seeds and root help clean the liver, spleen, gallbladder, and blood. Fennel oil mixed with honey can be taken for coughs, or applied externally to rheumatic swellings. The tea is used as a gargle. The seeds are boiled to make an eye wash for inflamed and swollen eyes. Use an infusion of the seeds as a gargle for gum disorders, loose teeth, laryngitis or sore throats. Fennel's anti-nausea properties are helpful for cancer patients after radiation and chemotherapy.
 Of somewhat more interest, intriguing possibilities, and amusement, tests have shown that fennel increases the libido of both male and female rats. [Might we pause at this point for a moment to suggest that you stop by Tapino, on a regular basis, for dinner and a plate of grilled fennel with tarragon?] Fennel is rich in compounds that act like the female hormone estrogen (phytoestrogens) and has been used for centuries to promote milk flow in nursing women. (Don't use the oil, however because in pregnant women, the oil is so potent that it can cause miscarriage, and in doses greater than about a teaspoon, it can be toxic). Some doctors (and many herbalists) believe that phytoestrgens exert a balancing effect on female hormone levels. Because of this balancing action, plants containing phytoestrogens are sometimes recommended for conditions of estrogen excess (like PMS) as well as conditions of estrogen deficiency (like menopause). In addition, these compounds exert an effect on the vascular system.  This is extremely useful in reducing both the frequency and intensity of hot flashes and thus helping alleviate menopausal symptoms. The traditional use of fennel for increasing mother's milk is due to its galactogogue properties. Because of this, plants with phytoestrogens, of which fennel is the prime example, have been used for centuries for breast enhancement. Given a reasonable quantity of fennel in the diet [we recommend 8-12 plates of grilled fennel per week, eaten inside Tapino's dining room - with wine, of course], the breasts naturally develop and grow fuller and firmer. Phytoestrogens may also protect the breast from the attack of an excess of estrogens which can be carcinogenic.
Anethole, the main constituent of the oil, has demonstrated anti-microbial activity. Dissolve a total of 25 drops of thyme, eucalyptus and fennel oils in 25 ml of sunflower or almond oil as a chest rub. Fennel should not be used in high doses as it causes muscular spasms and hallucinations. [Sheesh!! Snakes... evil spirits... flatulence... libidos... breast enhancement... chest rubs... hallucination... flea powder... are we sure that this stuff is even legal?]
America's 19th century physicians prescribed fennel as a digestive aid, milk and menstruation promoter. Latin Americans still boil the seeds in milk as a milk promoter for nursing mothers. Jamaicans use it to treat colds, and Africans take fennel for diarrhea and indigestion. A concoction made from the seeds is used in Chinese medicine for abdominal pain, colic and stomach aches.
One study suggests fennel has oddly contradictory effects on the liver. It aggravates liver damage in experimental animals but spurs liver regeneration in animals with parts of their liver removed.
 Nutritionally, fennel is Low in fat and calories. One cup of fennel has about 30 calories. Fennel is a fair source of vitamin A, vitamin C, niacin, and potassium and also contains folate (one of the important B vitamins). Fennel contains small amounts of calcium, iron, protein and carbohydrates plus provides significant quantities of dietary fiber. Fennel seeds are an important ingredient in seasoning blends of the Mediterranean, Italy, China, and Scandinavia. Fennel seeds may be roasted prior to incorporation into seasoning blends to intensify their flavor. Fennel is used in curry blends, Chinese five spice, mirepoix, and herbes-de-Provence. Fennel is also used to flavor fish, sausages, baked goods, and liquors. Liqueurs such as gin and aquavit are flavored with fennel and it is also used in distilling absinthe. And while you can easily purchase one of the readily available, commercial flavored vodkas, it is just as easy to prepare your own. Just add 1 tablespoon slightly bruised fennel seeds to a 750ml bottle of good quality vodka, let rest for 3 to 5 hours, then strain, chill and serve. It makes for an interesting change of pace and is wonderfully refreshing!
 The much sought-after fennel pollen is collected from wild fennel when the flowers are at the peak of bloom. The flowers are picked and carefully dried and then screened for pollen. Fennel pollen is like fennel seeds intensified a hundred times and just a pinch is added directly to foods, unlike the seeds which must either be ground or crushed to extract their flavor. Adding a burst of flavor to foods like roasted vegetables or seafood dishes, fennel pollen can also be used as a dry rub for meats or as a substitute for saffron in risotto, rice or pasta dishes. Be aware that fennel pollen is not cheap; its rarity, flavor intensity and hype have elevated it to cult status. Luckily a little goes a long way. Chef James often sprinkles it around on some of his more interesting dishes.
Fennel grows easily from seed, which are generally planted in early Spring. It is a tall plant growing to nearly six feet, with fine, green, feathery foliage and a small bulb at the base of the plant. The leaves are used as a flavoring and the bulb is used as a vegetable. Fennel is harvested when it is mature by cutting the base from the roots just below the bulb. The fennel bulb is actually a large swollen stem-base consisting of several overlapping broad stems (sorta-like-celery), forming a white to very pale green-white, firm, crisp bulb. When it's cut you can see the layers of the overlapping stems.
 Fennel's peak season is around the holidays, between October and February. However, in the modern world, fennel is available year round. It is grown in our off season by South American exporters, and a significant amount of fennel is also imported into the United States from New Zealand.
Often confused with dill, fennel is a taller plant and produces somewhat shinier and less divided leaves. Another distinguishing factor is the stems of fennel are not hollow like those of the dill plant. Tasting is the best test - dill tastes like ... ... dill!, and fennel tastes like licorice. Bright apple-green in color, fennel produces licorice-flavored, finely divided feathery foliage, beautiful yellow flowers, and closed-umbrella shaped golden seeds. Fennel seeds are sweet tasting and release a strong anise aroma. The hardy branches of young fennel fronds are resistant to wilting, and make a perfect garnish. Very perishable, fennel does not store well. To store, put fennel in a plastic bag and keep it in the coldest part of your refrigerator. Use within three to four days for optimum taste and quality. If allowed to dry, the flavor of fennel is lost. Tops and bases should be trimmed before use and the hard cores removed. Remove the outside leaves if they are discolored, damaged or very tough.
So, folks. That's the story. Whether you are love struck, have stomach troubles, on a diet, have fleas, fear evil spirits, need a cosmetic...um ...'uplift', or are just hungry for something a little different, you should stop by Tapino for your regular "fennel fix". Life is too short not to enjoy it! And, who knows what it might do for your social life!
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